The current buzz word is ‘foraging’. Not long ago it was the laboratory-transmogrified food of El Bulli, then it was ‘local’ and now every dull-witted chef in northern Europe is trying to ape René Redzepi. As ever, the one thing that really matters about food is completely over- looked – what it tastes like. Cooking should always be in the service of eating, not just to show off technique.

I loathe most Michelin-starred food. Lest I be thought a culinary philistine, I do make some exceptions. Jason Atherton, for one: the elegance of his food is more than matched by its resonant flavours. I also like the recently etoiled North Road, which embraces the foraging culture with such curiosities as alexander shoots but stops short of shaved elk’s antlers and burnt turnip tops.