Orford Ness, the 12-mile long shingle spit that separates the rivers Alde and Ore from the North Sea, is riveting. Until only 20 years ago, the Ministry of Defence used this desolate place to test nuclear weapons, and the sinister remnants of their work remains scattered across the landscape. On the plus side, the huge security blanket that existed for decades has ensured a natural paradise for a wide variety of sea-faring birds, particularly the rare avocet.







